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Wine picture of : Nicolas Rossignol - Volnay - 1er Cru - Chevret 2005

酒品: 


1. 2009 Bourgogne


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美國西北葡萄酒品酒會--邀您親臨感受近20支美國西北佳釀的獨特風味

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Parker downgrades 2008

Following the en primeur tastings two years ago, the general feeling amongst the trade and the critics was that the 2008 vintage was solid, if unspectacular. Against this backdrop then, it's no surprise that the release of Parker's generous '08 scores met with a sizeable dose of cynicism. A couple of years on and it seems that Parker's enthusaism for the vintage has dwindled significantly. As we reported this morning, his in-bottle scores (published yesterday) see numerous wines downgraded or rated at the lower-end of their initial barrel-score spreads. Margaux is among those to lose its footing and falls from 95-97 points to 94, whilst Latour moves down from 96-98 to 95+. Others of this ilk include Pichon Lalande (down from 94-96 to 92); Cheval Blanc (95-97 to 93); Leoville Las Cases (95-97+ to 93+); and Cos d'Estournel (94-96+ to 92+). There is very little movement in the opposite direction, though Conseillante moves up from 92-94+ to 95.

Having previously ranked above 2006 and 2003 and only slightly lower than 2005, 2008's demotion means that it now ranks below all three vintages. In fact, if we look at the brands that make up the Liv-ex Fine Wine Investables Index and then compare en primeur scores (based on the mid-point of the barrel-score spread) to final in-bottle scores for each wine, it is clear that the wines have been downgraded by an average of more than one point. If we compare en primeur and final scores for the same brands* but for all physical vintages from 2000 onwards, we are able to track Parker's changing opinion of each vintage. This throws up some interesting results. Whilst the 2000 vintage has received the most notable overall upgrade (an average increase of 1.57 points), the 2008 vintage has seen the most remarkable negative score changes, with ratings decreasing by an average of 1.18 points.

The table below shows the average score change of each vintage. Given Parker's new take on the '08s, is the rapid price movement the vintage has seen over the past few months sustainable?

Parker opinion change by vintage 
Scores from erobertparker.com

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一提到頂級義大利葡萄酒,大家一定會想到北義的Barolo。同樣的一提到頂級義大利食材及料理時, 不約而同的大家也會提到北義Alba 區的白松露. Barolo 與白松露的完美搭配至今仍使許多美食家沒齒難忘. 不過皮蒙特區 (Piemonte)不只有Barolo 與白松露, 還有許多值得品嚐的葡萄酒及佳餚, 讓非貴族的人有貴族般的享受.

皇室領土

皮蒙特區位在義大利端阿爾卑斯山山腳下, 曾為歐洲著名王室薩伏依王室(House of Savoy)的領土. 薩伏依王室原本只是一個位在瑞士的小郡家族, 透過幾次的政治婚姻後勢力開始擴大, 皮蒙特區則是在1051Otto (of Savoy)繼位, Marchioness Adelaide of Turin 結婚後, 成為王室領土.

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Ladoix Cuvee heritiere.JPG     

 

我喜歡喝法國布根地葡萄酒, 腦海裡印象最深刻的好酒大多也來自布根地, 只是最近這些年布根地葡萄酒漲許多, 許多頂級葡萄園 (grand cru)的葡萄酒紛紛定價在五位數以上, 好一點的Bourgogne 也要上千元, 能夠找到一瓶自己喜歡而且價格又合理的布根地葡萄酒其實還蠻困難的. 

前幾天參加一場盲評品酒會, 喝到不少款布根地葡萄酒, 其中有兩款我印象特別深刻, 而且價格才1,000出頭, 在我心中這些酒算是物超所值, 所以值得推薦. 這兩款酒一款是新世紀代理的天地人酒莊Lou Dumont 的2006 Ladoix 及台中詩人酒窖代理的2009 Nicolas Rossignol 的Cuvée L'Héritière.

Lou Dumont酒商是由日本仲田晃司2000 年七夕成立的年產七十桶(約 20,000 瓶)左右, 酒標上「天、地、人」三個漢字的意思是「釀造家的本位在於對大自然的真摯與尊敬」. Lou Dumont 的酒款曾出現在”神之雨滴” 漫畫上, 所以在台灣知名度很高, 而這一款2006 Ladoix 雖然來自一個適當早喝的年份, 現在喝起來的感覺在均衡感及層次感上都相當不錯.  Ladoix (or Ladoix Serrigny)位在Corton旁, 法定產區面積約120公頃, Ladoix 也有一級園, 市面上比較少見. Ladoix 同時生產紅酒與白酒, 紅酒陳年空間約5-8年. (新世紀網站: www.ncw.tw) 

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