New Zealeand Pinot Noir.jpg 

 

前陣子參加一場New Zealand 2006的水平瞎喝品飲,列酒單先(第一支是海盜酒亂入):


Domaine Pousse d'Or Santenay 1er Cru "Les Gravières" 2006 (BH:88)
Pyramid Valley Central Otago Pinot Noir Growers Collection Calvert Vineyard 2006
Mt. Difficulty Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006
Martinborough Vineyard Martinborough Pinot Noir 2006
Villa Maria Marlborough Pinot Noir Reserve 2006
Ata Rangi Martinborough Pinot Noir 2006
Rippon Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006
Felton Road Central Otago Pinot Noir Calvert 2006

 

New Zealand是南半球知名產酒國,全國境內皆有知名葡萄酒產區,從北島較溫暖的AucklandHawkes Bay(最知名的是Sauvignon BlancBordeaux-blended)、Marlborough,到南島的NelsonMartinboroughCentral Otago(主要種植Pinot NoirRiesling),都是知名產酒區。以Pinot Noir而言,最有名的莫過於Central Otago,它是南島最南的產區,天氣冷且位在South Alps山腳,表土雖有黏土但排水性佳,正適合Pinot Noir緩慢地生長;另外,Martinborough位在南島北邊,地塊小且近海,MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc較知名,但也生產優質Pinot Noir紅酒。

 

品飲之前做了些功課,New Zealand 2006是頗好的年份,依據Wine Spectator 2006年的報導(註1),2月至6月全國都是乾爽溫暖的天氣,MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc有著經典香氣,Central OtagoPinot Noir預期有著獨特的泥土和紅莓果香氣,溫暖天氣使Pinot Noir葡萄皮較厚、飽有單寧。依照自身短淺的經驗,New Zealand Pinot Noir常帶有頗重的溼泥土(腐土)和較純淨的紅莓果系(小紅莓、草莓、蔓越莓)香氣,微帶一些甘草或麥桿草梗香氣,其它產區的Pinot Noir有些不同。

 

這次品飲採用blind tasting,八支酒一開始年份特性都有些明顯,Bourgogne 2006的甜美風格可明顯在Pousse d'Or裡找到,酒精度上看13.5%,半小時之內很難猜到,半小時之後每支酒都逐漸被「打回原形」,土壤特性逐漸浮現,就容易分辨了。大體上說,New Zealand紅酒不脫新世界紅酒的個性,帶些甜美討喜感,高緯度讓酒體帶些清瘦,依照經驗,也能找出這裡熟悉的紅色漿果香氣。反觀作為對照的Bourgogne,帶著覆盆子、小紅莓香氣,皆是偏較酸甜感的莓果調,雖有2006年炎熱年份的甜熟香氣,酒醒後還是回歸較明顯的酸調和風格。

 

同樣是Pinot Noir,也是同樣年份,不同產區而有不同的天氣和土壤影響,不論是南北半球的差異、還是New Zealand境內各產區的不同,這兩項都是互相影響的,在氣候同樣多變的New Zealand也一樣。這次品飲裡,我們能分出BurgundyNew Zealand的差異,不過在New Zealand,不同產區也存在著差異,尤其是Central Otago的獨特乾燥花香調,還有Martinborough偏較濃的泥土燻烤風格,都是在不同產區裡被強調的部分。

 

有時也許土壤影響較深,也許某些時候的年份感覺較明顯,但我們何不嘗試找出年份與產區的特性、風格和差異呢?這應該還是品酒最大的樂趣之一吧!

 

1Vintages in New Zealand typically vary from region to region, yet 2 ~ 6 was a warm, dry year across the country, with an early harvest. Vintners are very excited. Marlborough’s signature variety, Sauvignon Blanc, is showing its classic flavors, said Whitehaven winemaker Simon Waghorn. Central Otago produces expect Pinot Noir to have earthy and red fruit flavors, with good tannins due to the grapes’ ripe seeds and thicker skins. In Hawkes Bay on the North Island, the red Bordeaux varieties often struggle to ripen. With the warm weather, though, “everything looks really good,” said Ta Awa winemaker Jenny Dobson. “We got quite a lot of spice and pepper, and that’s coupled with black fruit flavors.”


創作者介紹

葡萄酒講談社

wineschool 發表在 痞客邦 PIXNET 留言(0) 人氣()