此文章2004年曾在富豪人生Vintage 雜誌上發表

蘇士比的倫敦拍賣會即將在今年2004年12月3日舉辦一場葡萄酒拍賣會,酒品來自烏克蘭的瑪參都拉(Massandra)酒廠酒窖。拍賣會上的酒品,有非常多款瑪參都拉的百年老酒,及當時歐洲各地生產的葡萄酒。這個酒廠曾經經歷過多次的戰爭,也曾被不同國家的人掌管過,但是這些老酒依舊保存完好如初,十分珍貴。

雖然瑪參都拉酒廠位於烏克蘭,但是酒廠的歷史卻與俄帝沙皇有著十分密切的關係。

歷史記載沙皇為了避寒他與他的家人每年都會到位在黑海北岸的克里米亞半島夏季行宮,在那裡沙皇經常舉辦盛大的晚宴招待家人與大官,而葡萄酒是盛宴上不可缺乏的慶典飲料。不過沙皇為了確保聖宴上的好酒貨源不斷,他決定在克里米亞半島設立一個酒廠釀造葡萄酒,使他在避寒時也能有無數好酒可以暢飲。

他為了提高酒廠生產出來的酒品品質,他還特別聘請高利參王子到酒廠釀酒。酒廠每一年會把當年釀的每一款酒一部份存放在酒廠特別建造的酒窖裡,而釀酒師高利參王子自己本身也收藏其他地方的酒,所以經過多年的累積,酒窖裡的葡萄酒儲存量十分可觀。沙皇也會從酒廠生產出來的酒品裡挑選出品質比較好的酒給予特別的肯定,這些酒的酒瓶上則會有沙皇的皇家烙印。

酒廠在經歷過蘇聯內戰、納粹德軍的侵略一直到共產主義的統治與蘇聯的解體後,酒窖裡面的酒除了納粹德軍攻打這裡前被人從酒窖取出分三處短暫儲藏外,幾乎都是在無外界打擾的酒窖裡陳年。

瑪參都拉酒廠一向都是以釀造各式各樣的甜酒為主,甜酒像雪利酒,馬黛拉酒(madeira)、波特酒、馬沙拉(Marsala義大利酒)與都凱酒(Tokay)等酒廠都有釀造。像1848 年的西班牙Paharet 雪利酒和1869 Château du Vigneau (從高利參王子的私人酒藏),1880年Prince Golitzin Seventh Heaven甜酒,1893 Ai Danil Red 波特酒 (其中四瓶酒上有沙皇的烙印) 和1913 年Kron Brother’s馬黛拉酒 (六瓶酒,酒瓶用手工做的,而且有沙皇的烙印)等都是這次拍賣會的焦點。目前估計每一瓶酒的成交價將會在150英磅到2000英磅之間(相當於台幣9000元到12萬元左右)。

On the 3rd of December 2004, Auction House Sotheby’s will be hosting an auction in London on wines from Massandra Collection, featuring wine made at the Massandra winery dating from 19th century and rarities from other European countries.

Massandra winery is in Ukraine , but its history can be traced back to the era of Tsar Nicolas II of Russia. In those days bitter winter in Russia forced Tsar to recede to his summer palace in Crimea, and in his palace he often held extravagant parties. Wines were integral parts of the celebration and Massandra winery was built to supply wines to the imperial family of Tsars. Massandra collection comprised of every single style of wine made at the winery each year since the beginning of 20th century and the private wine collection of Prince Golitzin, who at that time was the winemaker at Massandra winery. Some of better wines had Tsar’s imperial seal on it. Even after the Russian Revolution, Nazi’s invasion and the Communist Regime this collection still remained relatively intact.

 

Massandra winery makes many styles of sweet wines, like Sherry、Madeira、Port、Marsala even Tokays and Muscats。Some of the highly anticipated items such as 1848 Paharet Sherry and 1869 Château du Vigneau (from Price Golitzin’s private wine collection) and 1880 Prince Golitzin Seventh Heaven,1893 Ai Danil Red Port (4 bottles with the Tsar’s seal) and 1913 Kron Brother’s Madeira (6 bottles, hand blown, and with the Tsar’s seal) had the estimated price per bottle between 150 to 2000 British pounds (approximately NT9000 to NT 120000) and will be appearing at the auction for the first time.

 


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